1. [Flash 10 is required to watch video]

    This is what my little nephew does when he’s bored… which is most of the time. 

     

  2. Here are some photos from my Angkor Wat trip that I took last month with my uncle. The trip was fantastic, and we had a great guide who was extremely knowledgeable. I found Angkor Wat difficult to photograph because, after you got inside, everything was so cramped that you couldn’t step back and take a wide shot… that and the bazillion tourists there. I decided to upload the cliche picture of myself standing infront of the temple, which I use to hate because of the asians in the background posing, but now I love it for the same reason. You want to know about the Angkor Wat experience… there it is!

     

  3. 2nd installment of pictures from my trip. These are all from Bayon Temple in Angkor Thom. I took many pictures of the actual temple, but in reviewing my shots realized that my favorites were usually ones of people experiencing the temple rather than the structure itself. 

     

  4. These last photos are a mishmash of some of the places we visited during the trip. Without context they are difficult to understand, so I will explain:

    1. The first is a picture of the statues near the South Gate to Angkor Thom. You can see on the far right the actual archway into the ancient city. These archways are still used today to mark the entrance into a pagoda or road to another town or village. I love this picture  because it shows the difference between the original statues and the “restored” ones. Many countries (not Cambodia) have pledged money to help restore the temples here, but I think what they are doing is not only a discrace, but a terrible eye sore for temple-goers. Many parts of the temple were destroyed by the Khmer Rouge, which is a terrible tragedy. However, I would much rather visit a partly destroyed temple as a reminder of the history instead of these horrendous remakes. Anything they do for structural integrity is perfectly ok, but as you can see, much of the “restored” work detracts from the actual beauty of the temples.   

    2. The next is a photo of an ancient stupa. I love this because stupas are still used today to hold the cremated remains of ancestors. It is so cool to see a piece of culture like this continued from long ago, something that is particular to a society and not cosmopolitan. 

    3. You may recognize this as the temple from Tomb Raider. Ta Prohm is definitely cool with its tree roots cascading into the temple grounds. I unfortunately didn’t get a spectacular shot of this because they built a stage in front of the temple and roped it off, limiting the area you could go and putting a huge ugly obstacle right in the shot. My uncle and I also didn’t stay long because there was a huge Asian tour group coming our way, so we tried to get our pictures while we could. I will have to go back one day and see if I can capture it better.  

    4. It’s the smaller architectural elements that really make these temples, in my opinion. They are incredibly beautiful, and it’s a shame we don’t make things like this today. This is also from the Ta Prohm temple. 

    5. This is Banteay Srei, a small temple a little north of Angkor Wat but one of my favorites for its intricate engravings. 

     


  5. Thoughts on Race

    The more I live outside the United States, the more I realize what an anomaly it is. As a white American, I never had to question my race or self-image; it seems as though my whole life, the world which surrounded me catered to my own ideas of self, and I never had to contemplate what it meant to be white. It seemed to encompass my worldview, and I saw with, and things were presented to me through, a white perspective. I never knew of anything more. 

    I grew up in a rural town in Pennsylvania, and although there are stereotypes about those sorts of places, I think my lifestyle, education, and general experience was comparable to most other white Americans. The one large difference was the lack of diversity. Seeming natural to me at the time, almost everyone around me was white with a very, very few exceptions. Despite this, one of my best friends when I was in elementary school was African American. Although I was much too young and naive to contemplate the issues of race, I nonetheless saw him as just like me. The idea of skin color taking on symbolic meaning was completely unheard of as far as I was concerned. Many people will commend this “color blindness” view, and I myself would have defended it until recently, but I am beginning of realize that I cannot simply ignore race.

    That friend of mine and I would eventually go in separate directions and even grow to dislike each other after a time. Later on, as I moved into higher levels of education, I would learn about ideas like race, slavery, inequality, and prejudice. I knew about the diversity of America, but I never really thought about it because I did not experience it at home. When I moved away to college I got my first real shock of the variation of people, including  differences in skin color, background, wealth, gender, politics, religion, sexuality, and lifestyle. Never before had I met people with such varying experiences, and I learned much from everyone I met. 

    Just beginning to scratch the surface of looking through eyes other than my own, I had the fortunate experience of discussing race with some people in the Multicultural Affairs Office at Syracuse University. They challenged me to realize that the reality of America that I know is my own, but many others share realities much different than I. They tried to explain to me that being a Black American or Asian American or any minority race has its tribulations, things difficult to comprehend for they are nonexistent to me as a white American. I cannot say I fully understood their imparting words nor agreed with some of the things they said. Much later, with the hint of understanding I took from that conversation, I tried to justify the Black History Month celebration to my white friends. To celebrate Black history was, in their opinion, discrimination and “reverse racism,” for it gave praise to one people and placed inferior importance on others. I parroted the response i got from the Multicultural Affairs people, that white history is celebrated year-round, in text books, holidays, and everywhere in between. Black people have accomplishments and a a history that is discussed little and only as a sidebar to white history, as if Blacks existed only in reference to their White counterparts. I wasn’t able to convince them otherwise, which is fine because I’m not sure I had been convinced. I told myself, however, that at this point in my life I cannot comprehend what it means to be Black, or Latino, or Middle Eastern, or Asian, and that I would seek out new ideas and opinions in the future so that I may better understand and formulate my own beliefs.

    That was about two years ago. It took me until now to realize that my mentors, the staff in the Multicultural Affairs Office, might be right, and that America is presented as a White nation. I had this epiphany about five minutes ago. My neighbors here in Cambodia were coloring in a book that my family sent from America. A picture of a little girl, obviously Caucasian with her big eyes and huge straight hair, was laying open, and I, glancing at it, didn’t notice anything right away. As I sat down on the other side of the room preparing to read, my eyes fell upon the picture again, and it caused me to stop and consider their artistry. My neighbors could have colored the little girl with any assortment of colors, but they chose a light pink for the skin and yellow for the hair. Thinking about it, I realized that they recognized someone that was not themselves, even in a black and white picture, and colored her accordingly. When I thought back, my coloring books had all been of people who looked like me. My money contained the images of my white ancestors, my god was fair skinned with brown hair, and the history books contained the images of the European conquerors I praised as founding fathers. My world was made up of people who looked like me. 

    What’s more, anyone of a different race, whether on the street on in a magazine, was obviously a foreigner or had a resent foreign ancestor. I understood these people to be Americans, but I think my unconscious mind constantly evoked ideas of foreign heritage. What is strange is that I never saw myself as foreign or other white people as potential immigrants. It is as if white people were nationals, that their presence in this land was a given as if they’d lived here all along. Even Native Americans, who traversed these lands long before the Europeans, seemed to be out of date, like Old English, and were strange and alien to me. Maybe a partial cause or example of this might reside in the names chosen for the races. African, Asian, Latin American, Middle Eastern, Pacific Islander, and all others contain references to their affiliate’s origins. Caucasian, a term which used to refer to peoples stretching from Western Europe to South Asia, has been appropriated to denote individuals of white skin color (at least in America). We do not call ourselves Europeans, but by a term that has lost geographical connotations as if, once again, white people were native to the land while all others came from distant places. Once again, I believe that these thoughts of mine were entirely on a subconscious level, though it may have influenced my conscious actions and beliefs. It is only as I sit here and write that I am able to pull these thoughts from somewhere, not knowing if they were real at one point or if I am just imagining, though deep inside I believe them to be true. 

    Not until I looked at the coloring book did it hit me: what does foreign mean to me? In Cambodia, people are constantly presented with images and ideas of foreignness, whether it is the U.S. dollars, which are accepted everywhere, the street signs, which contain English and Khmer, or the TV shows and billboards portraying “beautiful,” light-skinned people from other countries. Cambodians are constantly bombarded with ideas of what they are and what they are not. In America, my race was never challenged. I was what was natural and desirable, never foreign or strange. I never had to stop and consider the implications of my own actions in association with my appearance. I had a kind of sovereignty over my identity, not that I could control it, but that it was never questioned. 

    At some point in a baby’s life it can recognize itself in a mirror. I am curious when we are able to recognize foreignness, and what happens if we are never forced to look into the mirror and ask ourselves that question. I certainly never did when I was young, but I wonder now if my friend all those many years ago had any identity issues being the only African American kid living in the school district. I wonder if he was constantly aware of his skin color, unlike me. I wonder if he recognized foreignness in himself or in the people around him. 

    Quite opposite of the saying about the forest and the trees, I think white Americans cannot see the people for the society. The society is a kind of “reality” understood by all whites, and America’s society has a white identity, a white ethnicity. We subconsciously believe this even as we interact with peoples of varying diversities. We are not without cause to view this way, for a quick look around will reveal that whiteness dominates most sectors that involve power, including politics, business, and history. It is only a recent development, for instance, that America has seen other races (and genders for that matter) take commanding seats in the government. Therefore, it is easy for white Americans to identify with their like-skinned leaders and role models, for that which is powerful must be admirable and superior. In this way, they need never question the accepted establishment. However, people of other races may embrace a history and a collective experience that is dissimilar or even conflicting to that of whites. In a world dominated by white people who endorse the existing establishment of white dominance, minority people may have a few qualms with the status quo.    

    I do not believe that white Americans desire to keep people of other races in check or subservient, but I think we have developed a reality where we are comfortable. A person’s reality is so ingrained in their sense of self that an attack on their reality and almost like a personal assault. In this way, any time a minority brings up the the issue of race, white Americans get very defensive. The best example I can think of is my argument with my friends about Black History Month. In celebrating African Americans, whites, for once, are  marginalized, for once are denied, and we notice it like a slap in the face. For once, the minority group is not the footnote of the majority story, which instead takes a back row seat to the praise and glory of the minority. The idea of a white-dominated America is shattered, and our reality, and therefore our identity and personal sovereignty, is attacked. I think this helps to explain some white resistance to a more racially integrated and equal society. 

    Some people, understanding that race is a human invention, think that the best coarse of action is to reject all notions of race and assume a “color blind” viewpoint. I, myself, favored this approach for a long time. The people in the Multicultural Affairs Office told me, however, that color blindness is a common viewpoint for many white people, but is not a completely positive stance on race. By endorsing that view, they told me, you deny minority people their claim to their own reality and any plights they face by making race a non-issue. The reality is that race is an issue, one that has few consequences for whites but many for other minority people. The reality is that race is a part of our history, and although we may choose not to follow its dogma, we can nevertheless not reject its existence and implications. We must understand that reality is based on experiential knowledge, and there is no one single reality for there is no one single experience.  

    I have since come to realize that this “reality” I am so fond of is really just a white perspective of the world. While I may be perfectly happy with the way things are, the status quo may be completely intolerable for other Americans, hence the creation of things like Black History Month. The real color blindness, it seems, is white Americans’ own inability to recognize their own race and the implications it has for them. We do not question what is good and easy, for why should we when it brings only happiness. It is only when we are alienated, made to suffer, and/or denied equality that we notice something is wrong. It is only then that we experience what it means not to be white.  

    This article was written as if presenting facts, though I claim none of it to be. It is simply the thoughts I have attained and feel like sharing. I believe that through dialogue we can grow as a single human race, and I hope to promote it with my writings. If the reader should agree or disagree, I invite you to please comment on this piece. I am not opposed to having my mind changed or admitting I was incorrect.    

     

  6. So I missed going to see Angkor Wat for the first time because I overslept. I ended up meeting some friends and biking down to the Tonle Sap Lake. It was fascinating to see how people lived along the water, with a floating volleyball court, boats pulling houses (picture 2), and a boat-market (picture 2 again). Although I was bummed about not seeing the temple, I can be sure that it’s not going anywhere, and I will get to venture there soon enough. This trip, however, was as exciting and eye-opening as any.  

     


  7. It smells like home

       It has been an interesting experience living half way around the world in a society and culture much different that my own. I have found some aspects of myself changing and molding, while others have become reinforced. I believe, more than ever, that problems cannot be solved by outsiders, and especially not by throwing money at an issue. My school, for instance, is much better than many in the country; it has a computer lab and physical education classes, both of which are quite rare in Cambodia. However, the school (from what I’ve heard) has loads of sports equipment which were donated by an NGO but no fields to play on. The equipment just sits there not being used. Someone didn’t do their homework. My studies in anthropology have not only aided me in my integration, but I have also gained a new appreciation for the embedded observer and cultural relativist approaches. You cannot begin to understand people without spending a little time with them and attempting to see the world through their eyes. 

      Being in Cambodia has, on the other hand, brought about surprising internal contradictions. Some are simple feelings of homesickness, I suspect. I have grown fond of the smell of cigarette smoke, something which I used to detest. Although I would never smoke myself, I think the smell reminds me of home. Some beers that I used to think tasted like water have since grown on me, partly, I think, because throwing a few back was such a fond pastime in the States. As well, coffee, which I never really drank back home, fills me with a warm feeling inside. 

      On another note, and a much more relevant one I think, my ideas about politics have been explored and tested here. I used to be agnostic, but I have since become more prideful in my country’s political system and plan to play my role loyally once I come back. I am not involved or informed at this point, however, because I’m trying to detox from America for my duration here. Questions about the government’s responsibility in social issues have been brought into question. These inquiries first started when I was working in the Near Westside of Syracuse, NY and have continued to bother me here in Cambodia. What do people need? How can we mutually improve the condition of the people and the country without going bankrupt or causing a social dependency on handouts? What is the role of education in the development and prosperity of a country? How do we promote good education? I wish I had these answers now because I would be able to begin undertaking projects in my community without fear of consequences. Now, however, I need to tread lightly until I figure out how all these things work, though I’m afraid that will take much longer than two years.     

     


  8. English

    Right now I’m in Phnom Penh, the capital city, so that is why I have internet. Surprisingly, internet is widely available throughout Cambodia via little USB wireless modems. I just finished my two months of training and am here for my swear-in as a Peace Corps Volunteer. On Tuesday I will go to my permanent site in Siem Reap province, in the town of Srei Snom (which actually means ‘perfect lady’ interestingly enough). There I will help teach English to high schoolers for two years. I wasn’t really sure about my assignment as an English teacher at first; I thought that there could be better things I could be doing to help these people. Being in Cambodia has made me realize how important English is to learn in this international world we live in. Students, for instance, need to learn English if they want to continue to study at the university because a lot of the subjects and research haven’t been converted into Khmer. Last week I met a group of people, a guy from Germany, a guy from Holland, and a girl from China, who met up in Vietnam while on vacation and decided to travel to Cambodia together. They were able to comunicate with each other because they all knew English, which I thought was amazing. The guy from Holland knew a little German, but he knew way more English. It has made me feel a little guilty and lazy because my native language is English, so I didn’t have to study hard to be able to speak it fluently. Although I speak the language, I will be studying up on my grammar; there are so many things that you don’t have to think about as a native English speaker that you need to learn in order to teach it to non-native English speakers (superlatives, conditionals, tenses, ect.). I have my work ahead of me. 

     


  9. Rejection and Acculturation

       I wrote a rough draft of a blog post a while ago. The post was about how my experience in Cambodia has been tough and how I sometimes feel like going home to America. I decided to think about it for a while before I posted, and I’m glad I did.

       I have my ups and downs here, just like the other volunteers, and that week was a tough one. Last week, however, I got a chance to teach English to Khmai students in a school here in Angtasom, preparing for when I move to my permanent site here in Cambodia and become a full-time English teacher. The experience was really rejuvenating. It reminded me why I’m here serving in the Peace Corps and reassured me that it is not going to be a miserable two years. Although Cambodian students aren’t like American students, and it was difficult to teach at times, I thoroughly enjoyed the experience. The students had a strong desire to learn, and I had the means to help them. Someone commented the other week about how Khmai students want so badly to learn as much as they can so they can better their situation, while American students take their education for granted, thinking that it is a human right instead of a privilege. I think that working with motivated students will make my experience all the more fulfilling, and the accomplishments of my students, my community, and myself will more than make up for any hardships I may face. 

       I ended my blog post rough draft with the following advice, “Take solace in the little things, be optimistic, and always remember that tomorrow is another day.” My own advice, as it turns out, is the solution to my issues. Sometimes I forget to listen to my own self, forget the values that I hold. Sometimes I forget to appreciate the beautiful day or the fresh air. Sometimes I see pesky ants on my bathroom wall and sometimes I see my pets, my own little ant farm, scurrying to escape my barrage of bath water. Sometimes the glass is half full and sometimes it is not. When we’re negative, persistence can only go so far, and then after a while it wears us down. I think a better virtue is optimism, especially here in Cambodia, for it permits us not only to persist, but to live. To me, living is experiencing. To me, living is the only meaning of life, and it could never be more fulfilling that it is now, for every second is a new experience. Learning and sharing and seeing and hearing… may I never stop.

       To live, oh what a glorious endeavor.

     

  10. The first picture is of my teacher, Siphen, and her brother, Pheng Meas. They have both taught me a lot about Cambodian people and culture, and I am so happy I know them; they are some of the kindest and most interesting people I’ve met here. Siphen has a beautiful home in rural Cambodia, and Pheng lives in the United States. The second picture is of Siphen and myself, and I’m going to have to get it printed when I can.